You want the brush to be sufficiently wet but not dripping. Paint the inside frame of the window, starting at the top and working your way down to the jambs. Dip the brush in the paint as often as needed to keep it wet. Paint the outside of the trim and around the edges of the window. Paint the trim around the window starting at the top and working your way down. Paint in the corner between the tape and the window frame to ensure there are not missed edges.
For best coverage, hold the paintbrush at a degree angle to the corner between the trim and the pane and glide it over the surface. Raise the lower sash and lower the upper sash for sliding windows. For tilt-out windows, tilt the bottom sash down so you can get to the areas of the upper sash that are blocked by it.
Paint the upper sash staring at the crossbar and working your way all the way around the sash. Then paint the lower sash in the same manner. Paint the window casing and sill while the sashes are still open. Be careful while scraping next to the glass. A wrong move can cause a crack in the glass.
All loose or hard caulk needs to be removed as well. The sharp tip of the 5-Way can be used as a digging tool. If the hard caulk is very difficult to remove, dig out a shallow channel for the new caulk. This will increase the thickness of the new caulk and help it adhere.
Sand the entire window frame, sill and window sash after all the loose paint and caulk is removed. Power sanding is the preferred method with hand sanding used in the tight areas and next to the glass. A palm sander works extremely well and is easy to use. Use grit sand paper or finer for most areas. The idea is to smooth the rough edges and produce a smooth surface.
Any roughness on the surface will be highlighted after the window painting. While scraping you might come across large splits or rotten wood. This is most common on and around the sill.
Plus any glazing removed will need to be replaced. Cracks or splits in good sound wood are a frequent problem needing repair before window painting. Wood windowsills can split in two different ways, many fine cracks or a few large cracks. The repair sequence is similar in both cases. Replacing the wood section is the ideal repair method, but this usually involves a great deal of work and carpentry knowledge. I will explain how to reinforce the area and then patch for painting.
Prime all raw or repaired areas with an oil base primer. If the window was previously painted with an oil base finish and you will be applying a modern acrylic paint, prime the entire window sash and frame. Weathersheild paint is the best for this, it used to come in a 3 part system, 1 preserver, 2 undercoat, 3 gloss, the presever is no longer available due to voc's I use a good qaulity wood preserver not ordinary wood primer I have seen plenty of windows fail with oil based wood primer from as little as years!
A nice light sand and then a full coat of gloss. Do NOT burn off at all as this is a major fire risk to your home. If you get hold of some 40 grit oxide paper then wear gloves or expect to rip your skin off! Good luck. Hi this David from colourways ive been a decorator for 35 years i always do a good prep before i paint, one oil based primer, two undercoats,one gloss,. I hope you can help! I live on the top floor of an ex-council flat built in the 50s.
The building has cavity walls and the windows If the paint is peeling or the wood is damaged, you need to use a coarser paper. After sanding, inspect the wooden frame for spots of damage. This could be chipped wood or small holes. Many small holes could be an indication of an infestation, so check to see if the damage is just surface deep or something else. Discoloured wood may be rotten. You can double-check by using a knife and gently pushing it into the wood.
You can fix this with a wood hardener. Not all wood paints need a primer, like our 10 year wood paint, so check the tin before you start this stage. Use a small synthetic paint brush to cut in around the edge and then fill in the middle, working in long strokes. Try and apply the paint in the direction of the woodgrain for the smoothest finish.
Wait four hours for the first coat to dry before applying a second coat.
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